Jump to content

Photo

Monster Buggy is getting an upgrade,


  • Please log in to reply
72 replies to this topic

#41
skipped_link

skipped_link
  • Members
  • 347 posts
  • Joined 06-August 06
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Golconda NV

Once confirmed that the wheels do fit I broke down the other 4 tires/wheels & did the same thing, the only difference being the addition of new rock rings to the 4 wheels that will be on the machine all the time, Here you can also see the flange with the rockwell pattern removed,

Axletech 6-9-14 019.JPG

 

Test fitting everything before the tires go on.

Axletech 6-9-14 002.JPG

 

Tire mounting tool (A) The old milk crate worked perfect for holting the tire off the ground during assembly,

Axletech 6-9-14 004.JPG

 

Reason number 5,762 to have a overhead hoist, or jib crane in your shop.

Axletech 6-9-14 005.JPG

 

Here is the combo reassembled

Axletech 6-9-14 003.JPG



#42
skipped_link

skipped_link
  • Members
  • 347 posts
  • Joined 06-August 06
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Golconda NV

 I wasn't the only one working on tires, my helper was pretty busy with a set of her own.

Axletech 6-9-14 017.JPG

 

Once all the tires were mounted & aired up to 5 psi they were reinstalled

Axletech 6-9-14 021.JPG

 

Turned out 103" wide

Axletech 6-9-14 022.JPG

 

Looks like I should get to use all of the steering these axles have, with room to spare, it does turn sharp tho.

Axletech 6-9-14 023.JPG

 



#43
skipped_link

skipped_link
  • Members
  • 347 posts
  • Joined 06-August 06
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Golconda NV

Next up was drivelines, the pinion uses a winged type u-joint, size 8.5c, A guy could easily buy the parts to adapt a driveline to this pinion flange, but I thought it would be quicker & cheaper to build myself an adapter,

I started with a couple peices of 1" plate flame cut to roughly 7" diameter, Then on dads mill I drilled an 1.75" hole & bored to a finish bore of 2"

Axletech 6-9-14 024.JPG

 

Then the outside diameter was machined to fit it the winged pinion flange,

Axletech 6-9-14 026.JPG

 

Along with the register that will center a standard 1350/1410 flange

Axletech 6-9-14 025.JPG

 

 I was going to just mill a key way, then insert key stock to fit both my adapter, & the key way in the pinion flange/yoke, but since I had so much material to work with using 1" thick plate, I went ahead & made the key part of the adapter,

Here is the key roughed in, also the two bolt patterns, one bolts the adapter to the pinion flange/yoke, the other is threaded so the 1350/1410 flange can be bolted in place,

Axletech 6-9-14 028.JPG

 

And the finished part

Axletech 6-9-14 007.JPG

Axletech 6-9-14 008.JPG

 

Bolted in place, it even fit.

Axletech 6-9-14 009.JPG

 

The rear drive line bolted right back in, the front is going to need a little work.

Axletech 6-9-14 030.JPG

 

The plan for the NP205 got dumped, I was going to try & get an offset rear out put, (which powers the front in my case) this would dramatically improve my front driveline angle, but there is simply no way to get the offset rear output using the parts I had on hand, so for now a front drive line that will allow a bit more angle will have to do,

I have an idea on a different t-case option, but it is more of a winter project & I'll look into it later,

 



#44
skipped_link

skipped_link
  • Members
  • 347 posts
  • Joined 06-August 06
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Golconda NV

A couple hours of hooking up & adjusting the rear steer self center, & now the rear drive line in place, it was time to take it for a spin, even if only in 2wd.

Axletech 6-9-14 011.JPG

 

Initial thoughts, the brakes work pretty good, not near as powerfull as pinion brakes, & requires more effort to stop the machine, but definitely livable,

 

The steering sucked, it was just to stiff & slow, to me it seemed like lack of volume was the culprit, so I removed the pressure fitting from the front pump, drilled the oriface out to 11/64 & tried it again, much better, as a matter of fact I may not mess with it anymore, I do have a leak at the fitting now, I need to see if something is on the sealing surface or if I damged the fitting, but that's pretty small potatoes,

The moderate whine of the planets is pretty cool, for now.

To finish off this days off I got most of the plumbing done for the air lockers & got this little guy mounted,

Axletech 6-9-14 014.JPG

 

The compressor will be mounted on the bottom of the passenger cowl panel, up under the dash & pretty well protected,

A little more plumbing & some wiring & the lockers will be functional.

Axletech 6-9-14 012.JPG

 

For comparison, a parting shot
 

Before

Axletech 5-30-14 005.JPG

After

Axletech 6-9-14 010.JPG



#45
Soup Man

Soup Man
  • Members
  • 1,018 posts
  • Joined 13-November 06
  • Gender:Male

Finally - real tech.

 

 

Thanks Leroy.



#46
Blackhorse

Blackhorse
  • Members
  • 859 posts
  • Joined 23-February 07
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Yellowknife, NT
nice
I finally got that "jeep thing"..... now it hurts when I pee

#47
Twister

Twister

    OWNER of EMF Rod Ends

  • Root Admin
  • 7,388 posts
  • Joined 03-August 06
  • Gender:Male

Looks so sweet. I love the camber. Where did you buy that compressor from? It'll be exciting to see it at Havoc. So so far over a 2 1/2 ton or 5 ton -stronger spindles, stronger knuckles, no scrub , can handle a heavier torque load, steer sharper, can run wheel brakes fairly easy, have better upper clearance due to no chunk  and have a selectable locker. Hmmmm 



#48
CHEMMINS

CHEMMINS
  • Members
  • 236 posts
  • Joined 12-February 10

Wow....that is some awesome fab right there.



#49
ChestonScout

ChestonScout

    HAVOCS original BADASS

  • Members
  • 735 posts
  • Joined 01-December 08
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Clinton, utah

Knock it off everyone.....

 

 

 

As if his head wasnt big enough from winning all the contests he enters..........JEEZ

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

It does look pretty righteous tho 


Ignorance makes me immortal

#50
skipped_link

skipped_link
  • Members
  • 347 posts
  • Joined 06-August 06
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Golconda NV

 Where did you buy that compressor from?

 

So so far over a 2 1/2 ton or 5 ton -stronger spindles, stronger knuckles, no scrub , can handle a heavier torque load, steer sharper, can run wheel brakes fairly easy, have better upper clearance due to no chunk  and have a selectable locker. Hmmmm 

 The compressor is just the mini unit from ARB, I got it through 4 wheel parts,

 

Don't forget the housings are fairly easily welded to, & better ground clearance than a 5 ton, (not sure about a 2.5 ton)

 

Knock it off everyone.....

 

 

 

As if his head wasnt big enough from winning all the contests he enters..........JEEZ

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

It does look pretty righteous tho 

 

I give it 2 years & you'll be trying to get a set in the scout.



#51
montymbad

montymbad
  • Members
  • 96 posts
  • Joined 23-January 13
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Fort St. James BC

Man, if I wasn't fighting a GVW to stay under I'd pick up a set of those axles.  They are badass.  The rig looks nasty like that, should be pretty stable even with the wheels cranked.  You'll definetly have some fun with that hahaha!  Oh is it just me or do the front tires lean out instead of straight up?  The backs look straight up to me but the fronts don't.



#52
Twister

Twister

    OWNER of EMF Rod Ends

  • Root Admin
  • 7,388 posts
  • Joined 03-August 06
  • Gender:Male

haha I thought I said easy weldability guess I missed it. 



#53
Cody Ford

Cody Ford
  • Members
  • 1,001 posts
  • Joined 05-September 06
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Calgary/coutts
  • Interests:90' C350 AKA 4 door 1 ton bronco
    96' Ranger: kings, EMF parts, 800hp SBF

So I was just thinking about the brake setup and the performance of the new setup, have you thought of increasing the master cylinder size?  I don't recall if you did/mentioned it, but with the big increase in the amount of fluid you having to push, I would expect a similar increase in size on the master cylinder would be required (think of a garden hose that puts out 10gal/min out of two nozzles, now you increase the nozzles to 10 nozzles with a bigger capacity, you will need to increase your volume to maintain the same output performance) to maintain good brakes.

 

But I could be wrong and thinking of something else, but you go from 2 pinion brake calipers to 8 wheel brake calipers, I would expect some sort of upgrade to at least maintain the same peddle feel/travel.


90' C350 AKA 4 door 1 ton Bronco
96' Ranger: kings, EMF parts, 800hp SBF

#54
Twister

Twister

    OWNER of EMF Rod Ends

  • Root Admin
  • 7,388 posts
  • Joined 03-August 06
  • Gender:Male

good point Cody. I'll have to check into that before I start Brians.



#55
skipped_link

skipped_link
  • Members
  • 347 posts
  • Joined 06-August 06
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Golconda NV

So I was just thinking about the brake setup and the performance of the new setup, have you thought of increasing the master cylinder size?  I don't recall if you did/mentioned it, but with the big increase in the amount of fluid you having to push, I would expect a similar increase in size on the master cylinder would be required (think of a garden hose that puts out 10gal/min out of two nozzles, now you increase the nozzles to 10 nozzles with a bigger capacity, you will need to increase your volume to maintain the same output performance) to maintain good brakes.

 

But I could be wrong and thinking of something else, but you go from 2 pinion brake calipers to 8 wheel brake calipers, I would expect some sort of upgrade to at least maintain the same peddle feel/travel.

 The problem with increasing master cylinder size, (diameter of the piston) is, yes you increase volume, & have a firmer/shorter pedal stroke, but you loose power,

I only have about a 3:1 pedal ratio, so I need the power to come from the smaller master cylinder,

I am running .750 bore master cylinders, (1 for the front, 1 for the rear) the pedal stroke is a little longer now but the brakes seem to work ok, with a bigger master cylinder the stroke would be shortend, but the effort to stop the machine would increase,

 

Cheston drove the rig last weekend, I asked what he though of the brakes, He said "they must not be bad, I didn't even notice them"

 

The other thing is the physical size of the MC, these are tiny, & look to no longer be available, I'm not sure I could even fit a different syle / bigger bore MC in the machine without modification,

 

I did get to take the rig out & do some wheeling, had a visitor show up & after a little work it was time to go do some testing,

IMG_08331.JPG

 

Only pic I got was a poser shot, but at least it's out of the shop,

IMG_08341.JPG

 

While wheeling I did notice my torque converter seems to be stalling a bit higher, I'm sure the nitrous is not helping that at all, plus the trans is letting a little oil out of the bell housing,
 I called Edge racing converters & they are going to build me one of their "street edge" converters, since I'll be that far into it I will go ahead & freshen the trans & make sure everything is ready to go for a few years again, Hopefully.

The other thing I want to change is the front drive line angle, right now I have a very worked over 1350 superduty front shaft in there, & it is pretty much working at the limit,
In 2wd it is fine, slight vibration at about 10 mph, then smooths out nicely, but put the front in gear & with a little load it vibrates pretty bad from 10 mph on up.

I had plans of trying to drop the rear out put of the 205 (front out put in my machine) so both out put shafts were off set from the input shaft, but there is just physically no room in the 205 to do this the way I wanted,
 
 I have a plan "in my head" to build a drop box, using the wide 1:1 gears from an NP205, both outputs will be offset, (in line with each other) & have one axle disconnect,
 I'm not sure if I want to be able to disconnect the front for rear 2wd, might be nice driving to/from the trail,
Or if I am going to make the rear disconnect, then I would have front dig if needed,
Both options have their benifits, so I think I will just go with what's easiest, or fits best when fabrication time comes.

So if that works out I will have a strong 1:1 drop box, For reduction I will look into some form of planetary reduction box, (Klune-v, NWF black box, or even better, a DIY kit where I can use a 271 planetary, like D&D box for rocks, or the Behemoth strong box)

Hopefully I will have some progress on this part of the project early next month,



#56
Twister

Twister

    OWNER of EMF Rod Ends

  • Root Admin
  • 7,388 posts
  • Joined 03-August 06
  • Gender:Male

Man I haven't been on here for a bit been so busy. Bet you it was a fun day. Did you side hill it at all? 



#57
ChestonScout

ChestonScout

    HAVOCS original BADASS

  • Members
  • 735 posts
  • Joined 01-December 08
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Clinton, utah

Man I haven't been on here for a bit been so busy. Bet you it was a fun day. Did you side hill it at all? 

 

 

Bwahahahahahahahaha.

 

 

 

He tried to kill me!


Ignorance makes me immortal

#58
skipped_link

skipped_link
  • Members
  • 347 posts
  • Joined 06-August 06
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Golconda NV

Man I haven't been on here for a bit been so busy. Bet you it was a fun day. Did you side hill it at all? 

 

It was a good time,

Cheston & myself got into a bit of a hairy spot on the side of a mountain, the buggy is noticably more stable, Cheston was not sharing my enthusiasm so much tho.



#59
Twister

Twister

    OWNER of EMF Rod Ends

  • Root Admin
  • 7,388 posts
  • Joined 03-August 06
  • Gender:Male

haha nice



#60
Jsfucttruck

Jsfucttruck
  • Members
  • 769 posts
  • Joined 02-September 08
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Santa Cruz, Ca

Why not make the np205  the drop box.
https://www.facebook...?type=1






0 user(s) are reading this topic

0 members, 0 guests, 0 anonymous users