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Samurai Jack build

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#1
Lee McCarty

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Alright guys, going to try and do my own build thread. 

 

Project is 1986 Suzuki Samurai, which coincidentally was built the month I was born!

 



#2
Lee McCarty

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Checking L76 size



#3
Lee McCarty

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Finally got tires in, checking to see what they looked like beside the Sami

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#4
Lee McCarty

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Inspecting Double bead locksIMG_0778.JPG IMG_0779.JPG



#5
GiS

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What is your long-term plan for this rig? Looks like a good start!


Once along time ago, in a subduction zone not to far away, great thrust faults and up-lift occurred, that my friend blows me away..... In this great land, we all treasure the same, I see no reason to only have mud trails, thats just lame. Thus today I made a vow I promise to uphold, I will find a rock trail in Alberta by hunting through the heat, rain and even the cold. So to all those Igneous and sedimentary rocks around, look out, the day is coming when you will be found.

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#6
Twister

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Awesome so your putting Axle techs in it? You're obviously linking it. What type of belly are you putting in it? as in material. Those axles are so cool. When I built the warthog it's the type of axle I had in  my head they just didn't exist yet.  I'm excited to see this build. I have a million more questions but I'll ask them gradually.



#7
Lee McCarty

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What is your long-term plan for this rig? Looks like a good start!

Not sure what you mean, the finished product or where it will be used? The idea is to rebuild that 6L with twin turbo's and about 900 hp in the long run. I'm really wanting to do some competitions with it. Mountain havoc. TTC if they have it again. HRC if it goes. Hope that answered your question.



#8
Lee McCarty

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Awesome so your putting Axle techs in it? You're obviously linking it. What type of belly are you putting in it? as in material. Those axles are so cool. When I built the warthog it's the type of axle I had in  my head they just didn't exist yet.  I'm excited to see this build. I have a million more questions but I'll ask them gradually.

I'm just working on the rockers right now, then building new frame using 4"x 2" 3/16 wall rectangular tubing and then hang the T-600 transfer case. So depending how low it hangs might change the plan in my head. The game plan is to build plate drop brackets to protect the t-case and mount lower links too. 

I'm looking forward to your questions and open to opinion's.

 

As i side note i haven't figured out how to get the photo's to load the right way up yet. :) 

 

 

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#9
Lee McCarty

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This was to progress for tonight. Got the fire wall and tunnel trimmed to fit the tranny. Might have to do a rear rad or extend the hood to get a rad and fans in the front. Also got one tire cut up to try an idea of mine out. It'll be a bit before i get to see the results but i was excited to see how it looked!

 

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#10
Toofattofly

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Keep an eye out for frame clearance with large tires, your frame will have to be narrow front and rear for the 45 degrees of turning radius these axles have. I had to redo my back half for articulation.



#11
Cody Ford

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One thought on that to ponder, with a shorter wheel base and front/rear steer, if the clearances are a real PITA, you could always limit the steering down to 40* if needed, but guys have been able to get it all to fit as toofattofly has said.


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#12
Twister

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make sure you have access to everything when you do your firewall. My biggest regrets have always been building everything to tight and it makes it a bitch to work on. I like the tire pattern. And I haven't figured out how to get the pictures to post up right either. It's a glitch when posting with an I phone or a mac. I usually have to post se where it sits delete it go into my pictures flip the picture and re post. But it's easier to just post sideways pictures. 



#13
Lee McCarty

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Got two tires mounted up tonight and on a diff to check maximum frame width. Was shooting for 32" frame width to run the exhaust on the inside of the frame and make running it easier and max without articulation is about 34" for the diff's with 46" rubber. I'm still on the fence about building it with 54" tires in mind incase i want to run those later (I know 46's are really making a waste of the axle techs).  I guess running offset rim's when the 54's come is another option. With the narrowed AT's and flat face rim's i'd need to run a 30" or less frame to clear 54's which might be a problem in the rear.

 

I'm going to try and make as many pieces of the cage, frame and supports unbolt so as to make working on it later easier.  I watch my brother with the same problem of building tight and making it hard to work on later. Hopefully I learned something watching him build his.

 

 

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#14
Toofattofly

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Sorry, it was link bars, for the lowers that get real close to the turning radius of the tires. Good luck with the build.



#15
Twister

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So you have the narrow axle techs. That's cool. Especially on a sam. 



#16
Lee McCarty

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Alright, its been awhile since i got to work on the sami, to much work and now no work, so i got couple things done. I was planning on running double triangulated 4 link but after reading this thread "Link set ups ?" i've come to the conclusion that it might not be the best idea. And a single v 4 link will help with clearing the upper arms on the front.  I do have a lot of questions about what anti-squat is and the rest associated with it, if anyone and point me in the direction of some reading material that would be much appreciated.  And to answer the question before about what the end use of the rig is, it is to end up at Mountain Havoc and the like competitions.   

 

I'm also looking for coil over's and bump stops if anyone is selling a set.

 

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#17
Twister

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The first and last thing you need to know about anti squat is don't try to fuck with it. Keep the rear link mounts at the frame parallel  to 70 percent of what the vertical distance at the diff is. In the front it works backwards but for a fool proof set up 60 to 30 percent at the frame compared to the diff. that means if the diff mounts are vertically separated 10" at the frame the separation should be between 3 to 6 inches.In the front this will hold the nose level or maybe pull it down a little when traction is applied. In the rear 70 percent will lightly try to lift the rear when traction is applied. Moving a little weight to the front tires but not much. Parallel will transfer weight from the front to the rear and give you some pretty crazy traction. Great for a front engine rig. A little to much for a rear engine.



#18
mogman

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Are those the steel wheels you have there? Or aluminum? And how much backspacing?

#19
mogman

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The reason I ask is I have the narrowed Axletechs too that will be going under my buggy in a few months and they look on the narrow side for my rig with 54" claws. Maybe I'm paranoid. Lol

#20
Lee McCarty

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mogman, they are aluminum and zero offset from WCR, i did some measuring on mine to see about clearing 54" later and they turn so far that it would likely hit control arms or your frame. i can grab that measurement for you if you like.  but i would go with some offset rims to clear the 54's. Just a question, is your's the buggy selling the mog's with the Mercedes grill?






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