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#1
Jsfucttruck

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So I just picked up a 78 Chev K30 from a friend for $1000.  It's a clean truck but I only bought it to flip it. It is equipt with a 400/400/203 with Srw Dana 60/14bff (4.56gears)
I am going to swap the axles under my 78 Burb k20(8lug 10b/14bff), and swap the 400/203 for a 400(10spline output to AA adapter to 10 spline 205)205 combo I have out of my other truck.
I am going to use the 400/203 for my doubler parts on my flatbed project.
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Here is the 10spline Th400 to A.A. Adapter to 10spine(Using a sm465/205 racetrack 10spline adapter) Np205. This is what I want to put in the truck in-place of the 400-203.  Confusing?
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#2
Mr.Duck

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Palm trees, sun, sand surf (MMMMM):rolleyes:
Oh ya, looks like a good upgrade :D
FAWK THAT

#3
Twister

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how rusty is the truck?

#4
Jsfucttruck

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Not Rusty at all, in the Normal places...

It has some small damage to the lower rocker panel on the front driver side of the bed, but that's it..

I couldn't pass this one up for the price.

I am going to swap the 3/4 ton axles from my Burb and turn around and sell it.

#5
Jsfucttruck

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Well I finally got her home..   Only the right rear brake works, and it only locks up. Luckily I only had to drive 4-5 blocks home, because it ran like such crap that I had to drive in Low-Range. The steering felt good but the pedal was going to the floor.  I am worried that it is the hydro-boost unit going bad(steering good brakes bad, master&P.S. pump are full). Since my house is a Chevy parts store(not really) I have a good spare Hydro-Boost Unit and New/er(not used) Master cylinder.  My wife said that the right rear that was locking up looked "wobbly" .  I'll have to look at that too. Other than needing a tire and seat, the rest is just love/labor. I am hoping to get around $1400-$1800, or just break even.  I figure as long as I get what I have into it, I can feel good about putting a 60 in my burb.


I washed her and scrubbed her dirty ass down today. I also had to tear the seat out, I'll go get the other spare bench I got stored in my flatbed.
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She's got some surface rust and a few bubbles but nothing bad for living by the sea since it's creation in the Fremont plant(closed some years ago) only 40 or so miles away.

#6
Jsfucttruck

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I found the original build sheet for the truck in the bottom of the rotten seat..

Why don't they build vehicles to customer specific requirements like this anymore..

I found what I was looking for here. It wasn't in the glove box, inner fender-well, or nor was there a tag on the diff covers.

Do you see it?
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4.10 RR Axle
I am going to pop the cover before I stab it into my burb, but as long as it is was it say's I don't have to worry about mis/matched gears.

#7
Jsfucttruck

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I'll have to pop the rear to check, but does anyone see the code for a factory gov-bom in the rear?

#8
Jsfucttruck

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I finally got a chance to tear into that thing.. What a junker.  It needed a whole pile or things..
Mufflers rotten
Hydro Boost Unit is shot
Front seat was rotten
Rear brakes were worn down to the rivets
It still has some mystery V8 in it
I have to swap a 4bbl carb and manifold to smog
U joints in rear shaft are shot
Tires are worn(one is BALD)

Luckily I have almost everything from past parts trucks. Apart from tires and a muffler(I have one) I think I have everything else laying around here somewhere.

#9
Jsfucttruck

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So I had to make sure the 60 had 4.10's, so I popped the cover and I'm good.  I also opened the rear, no gov bomb back there.
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#10
Jsfucttruck

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I got the axle out today..  It's not like moving the old Dana 44's and 10bolts.  That pumkin side is heavy.... I originally thought I was going to have the truck on the jack stands high enough to roll the axle out on tires.. Nope.  I had to take the tires off and drag it out by hand.. Lame.  I scraped the big shit off and started assessing the situation.  I caliper is frozen, the other leaks. The wheel bearings feel crunchy, and pass side knuckle/spindle wobbles.  As before, I have most of the parts either new/spares(for my flatbed) or used off parts trucks. I think I got all the kingpin stuff-minus one seal for the lower bearing.
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I decided to keep with the green theme.. I think I'll paint the Kingpin caps and steering stabilizer too.

#11
Jsfucttruck

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I seem to always be draining water/gear-oil, so I got one of those fancy LubeLocker Sealant-less diff cover gaskets.  
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#12
Jsfucttruck

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Rotten Muffs and pipe.
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#13
madness

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i put 60/14 in my burb last year so glad i did that . i would do a crossover steering aswell and a disc brake setup on the 14.the steering and the brakes make the truck way better.
79 scout2 ,1st gen cummins running a hx35.non intercooled,727,205. front60 has 35spline inner and outers witha detroit and full hydro psc set up, rear is a dana80 5:13s and welded,3link front and rear.16 fox coilovers upfront and airs in the rear with 4'' bumps on all 4 corners. cage is 1.75 .188wall , rollin on 44boggers with locks. daily driver is a 86 burban 8'' on 38 boggers 5150 all around with radflo bumps up front. 60/14bolt welded in the front , ram assit.. soon to get a cummins so i can tow with it.

#14
Jsfucttruck

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View Postmadness, on 08 July 2011 - 10:38 AM, said:

i put 60/14 in my burb last year so glad i did that . i would do a crossover steering aswell and a disc brake setup on the 14.the steering and the brakes make the truck way better.




I agree, all of those things are on the list of thing to do..  Unfortunately I do not have to funds to sponsor suck an action.  I have nearly everything needed to swap disc's in the back but I need a e brake set-up. I figured I would do a output shaft mounted setup. I am not the biggest fan of the cadillac caliper set-up on my other truck.  I also was wondering if I could do a cross-over  set-up with little to no lift?

#15
Jsfucttruck

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So my neighbors feel that the truck is unstable with no axle under it.  I tried to assure them that the pair of 8ton jack stands that are under it are more than enough to be safe... So they talked to their neighbors and came over and said the same thing. They then proceeded to tell me that I couldn't work on my truck where it is parked.  I told them I would get my spare axle under it for now................lol   "spare axle"(aka dummy axle)


  I have concluded that most of the people in my neighborhood or car dumb, and I simply didn't have time to swap the axles yet.. So........... Que the "spare axle"


I spent ten minutes in the middle of the night and came up with this...
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#16
Jsfucttruck

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Hahaha..
The next day, the neighbors came up to me and told that I work fast...........lol

#17
Jsfucttruck

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So to smog the damn thing here I had to swap a 4barrel manifold and carb on it.  The smog guy said he couldn't do it with the 2 barrel setup on it..  So tear down time..
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I got down to the Engine Stamping number and ran them..  It's a 1977 2bbl 305. 145hp...
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#18
Jsfucttruck

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I got a manifold off my wife's old motor out of her 1969 Nova..  It was a 300hp 350.  The carb I used is off a 1977 400... What a whore of a truck.
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Running... And I wasn't even 180 off this time.
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#19
Jsfucttruck

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I still have to figure out what I am going to do about the Hydro-Boost unit... I have one, but it is a Metric O-ring unit, and the truck is set-up for the inverted-flare..  I have found out that they don't make an adapter from O-ring to inverted flair.  I either have to swap out the power steering pump, and steering box. Or have custom hoses made($100+).. Lame
I heard that there were a few companies making the adapters but they don't recommend it and want to see my Hydro-unit to measure clearances?  One company I seen was Lee power steering.
Here is a pic of them
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#20
Mr.Duck

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Did you check out Earls, Russell or Aeroquip?
I'm sure I saw adapters  on one of their websites.
Used pump and box from the wreckers?
FAWK THAT




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