15 replies to this topic

[Home Brew S-10]

So far the only issue i have is the front mount cracking where the plate that was in the adapter kit is welded it to a heavy flat bar. I used a poly bushing to mount it. I wasent sure if the bushing would let the mount move enough and thought this might happen. Should I try and find a rubber bushing or turn the mount the same as the rear one?

[Twister]

I'm in the dark there where is it cracking?  Are the only 2 supports the ones in the picture.

[Home Brew S-10]

In the first 2 pics ( front mount) where the top plate is welded to the stem , on both sides between the bolts. The top plate being the piece the two 3/8 bolts go through into the case. The last pic is the rear mount taken from the back. I found a mount from advance adapters that is made for the adapter I have so I will have to modify what I have but should work

[Home Brew S-10]

this help

[the dude]

simple gusset on either side??

Or are you worried it will be too rigid?

[Home Brew S-10]

A little worried. The guy at atlas said they have a mount that will bolt to the front of the case not the adapter. He also said that with  a mount on both ends I will always have issues so I'm not sure what to do

[Home Brew S-10]

A little worried. The guy at atlas said they have a mount that will bolt to the front of the case not the adapter. He also said that with  a mount on both ends I will always have issues so I'm not sure what to do

[Twister]

? he  must be old and trail ride in california because if it's not supported on both sides it'll break the tranny housing. Have you seen those guys wheel? I saw it in Fordyce. I looked at Leroy and asked what the guys in front of us were doing. He looked at me laughed and said "Wheeling that's how the wheel here"  They literally crawl the whole time. Anyway I think you need 2 bushings side by side on the front aout 3-4 inches apart. It's robably wobbling side to side under load and that's working the flat bar until it cracks. Like bending a coat hanger back and forth. The rear mount is fine like it is. It jst take weight of the tail.

[Home Brew S-10]

I think I understand what u mean about two bushings. But will it work with the stiff poly ones

[Twister]

as long as they are similar to the motor mounts. You don't want the motor mounted more rigid or softer than the t-case. You need the whole thing to move equally.

[Home Brew S-10]

So the mount I got from atlis only made one trip and shit it's pants and also allowed the case to move to the driver side. Didn't hurt any thing just rubbed some paint off the rear shaft on the gas tank. Thank god the case didn't split. So now I get to redo from the motor mounts to the case. Clay if you have a pic of what you talked about before with the 2 bushings please post it. I think I understand what you said but just want to make sure

[TeamHyperBoost]

i believe your problem is when your motor moves under torque do to the design of your mounts they are amplifying the amount of movement.  so if you were to put the bushing right up to the trans/t-case the movement of the engine would not be multiplied/amplified. aka the motor movement would NOT have any leverage over the mount.  

clear as mud????

[Home Brew S-10]

Never thought of that but it does make sense for the back mount. Not so much for the front the way it is now is a lot shorter than before

[Dweezel17]

Personally I like to mount Trans and T-case mounts in the same as the engin mounts same mounting width and have the bushings located the same direction as engine mounts IE mounting bolts goin parallel with the frame. As  Twister said keeps every thing moving together the same with out craking trans case or adapter.  And of coarse a mount off the end off the case, for the weight.

[Twister]

god I wish I new how to draw on pictures on the screen and post. This is furstrating trying to describe what I ment.

[Home Brew S-10]

I got some poly bushings from work. And ordered poly motor mounts. I have a idea what you mean so I'm gonna run with it will post pics later.